Jeju Island, also known as the "Island of the Gods" is a mystical, volcanic island just an hour's flight from Seoul, making it a nice, quick getaway from the city. Jeju is the biggest island in Korea, and a popular vacation spot for both locals and foreign tourists because of its laid back pace, island culture, UNESCO World Natural Heritage hiking trails and fresh food!
Where to Stay
I have stayed both in Jeju City and Seogwipo (the two main cities in Jeju). Seogwipo is a port city, and has better resort hotels whereas Jeju City is only 10mins away from the airport and definitely feels more 'local'.
If you don't really have budget constraints, you can go for one of the beautiful 6-star resorts in Seogwipo. The Lotte Hotel, for instance, has a windmill park, man-made waterfalls and a duty-free shopping mall all within its own grounds.
When travelling on a budget, however, I opted for an Airbnb in Jeju City. Mee Ja's place was an absolute delight - our home for the three days and two nights we were there laid above a cosy bakery with that served us a (complimentary) breakfast of fresh coffee, boiled eggs and warm bread straight out of the oven! What a perfect way to start our day. If you stop by, do check out her wonderful collection of French children books and diving travel guides. Our host, Mee Ja, was so warm, helpful and friendly - she helped us call for a taxi to the airport and responded quickly to all our messages. One of the nights, we managed to have a nice long chat over steaming mugs of her delicious vin chaud. I miss it already!
How to Get Around
Public transport around Jeju is not the best, so I would definitely recommend getting a private driver so that you can have a flexible trip and see as much as possible. Most places in Jeju are a long drive away so a private car/van makes the most sense in terms of money and comfort.
I highly recommend Mr Ann, who made our trip such a memorable one! Mr Ann is really funny and loves to take pictures. He was very accommodating with his time and his daily and half-daily rates (130k Won and 100k Won respectively) were below market price. Although he catered to the itinerary we planned out, he also gave us a number of excellent suggestions and took us to really yummy places to eat.
What to Eat
There are three things you must try in Jeju - the black pork, seafood (don't miss the abalone porridge) and Jeju tangerines (or "gamgyul"; the sweetest crops are in winter). And what better way to find the best than to ask a local! Don't be shy to ask for recommendations and make some friends.
What to Do
1. Go sakura hunting & have your very own k-drama moment - My latest trip was in Spring. which in my opinion is the best time to go to Jeju. The streets are lined with cherry blossom, and the air full of soft, pink petals. Yeoido Park in Seoul was beautiful, but nothing compared to the streets of Jeju. Apart from cherry blossom, other flowers will be in full bloom too, like their vibrant yellow canola flowers that grow across entire fields.
2. Hike up Mt Halla or along one of Jeju's stunning coastal trails - Jeju Island is known for its natural heritage sites, and hiking along the Olle trails is not something you should miss.
3. Explore Jeju's seabed and award-winning octocoral reefs from inside a submarine - Jeju's octocoral forests are one of the largest in the world, and are listed as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. If you are not so interested in corals, we did manage to see a 2002 shipwreck on our excursion too, and taking a boat into the middle of the sea to transfer into a submarine was an experience itself.
4. See if you can catch a glimpse of the elusive roe deer - The deer park is close to the Mt Halla trail, so you can stop by when visiting the mountain.
5. Discover Udo Island - Jeju is known for its famed female divers who can dive up to 20m and hold their breath for several minutes. They are trained to withstand icy waters from a very young age. Sadly, this tradition is a dying one as younger ladies are not interested in making a living in such hard conditions. Many of the divers are over 60 years old and still diving!
6. Matcha lattes & cream rolls at the O'Sulloc Museum - this is a personal favourite of mine. The museum is a light brick building with floor to ceiling windows letting it lots of natural light. As you sit down for tea after enjoying several exhibitions, outside, you will see trickling streams, manicured gardens and a vast green tea plantation. Set aside at least 3 hours to walk its grounds, shop for souvenirs and unwind.
7. Shop for natural Korean skincare & cosmetics at the Innisfree Jeju House - next to the O'Sulloc Museum you will find the Innisfree Jeju House. If you are looking for a more substantial meal, there is an organic cafe inside. Innisfree is a local skincare and cosmetics brand known for being very natural. It sources its ingredients from Jeju Island itself.
8. Absorb zen vibes at the Bonsai Garden (The Spirited Garden) - this garden is one of the most peaceful places I have been to, and is a product of the gentle care of one man - Mr Sung Bum Young. It is really inspiring to see someone so dedicated to his art. I had the honour of meeting Mr Sung himself on one of my trips, and it is clear to see that all the love he put in his garden pays off - it makes him so happy to enjoy what he created and share it with the world.
Jeju is such a nice place to visit with friends or family. Even though it is advertised as a honeymoon location, I think it would be too quiet for me! If you are going to Seoul, Jeju can be a nice break from the hustle and bustle of the city - a good place to have some nourishing food and fresh air.
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